Thinking about an overland trip to Mexico, but don’t know where to go? In this article, I share with you why the small, beachy stretch of Playa Zipolite, Mexico should definitely be on your destination list!
Playa Zipolite (Zipolite Beach) was one of our favorite stops in Mexico; I can’t recommend it enough. Keep reading for what to expect in Playa Zipolite and our own experience as overlanders in this vanlife paradise.
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Where is Playa Zipolite?
Playa Zipolite is located in the State of Oaxaca, Mexico. It is a six-hour drive south of Oaxaca City, through highway 175. Do not take highway 131, a road of bad conditions and a worse reputation.
Playa Zipolite is 1.5 hours west of Oaxaca’s famous party beach, Puerto Escondido, and 1 hour east of another popular beach beauty, Huatulco.
If you’re heading down to Playa Zipolite from Oaxaca City, don’t miss my article on San José del Pacífico, a beautiful mountain town renowned for its magic mushrooms, sunsets, and lush mountains and valleys.
What to Expect in Playa Zipolite
Playa Zipolite is a smaller community than most beach destinations in Mexico. You can walk from one end of the beach to the other in about 20 minutes.
On your 20-minute walk along the beach, you’ll pass restaurants, bars, hotels, hostels, pseudo-campgrounds, and a small stretch of sandy beachfront parking. This free parking area is where vans, RVs, and trailers open their doors to the sea, setting up canopies and hammocks for the best beach boondocking for miles around. (It was in this special spot where we spent almost a month boondocking! I’ll give you all the deets down below in the “VanLife in Playa Zipolite” section.)
In general, the western end is busier and livelier than the eastern end.
Playa del Amor Nudist Beach
The first thing you have to know about Playa Zipolite is not about Zipolite at all – it’s about nearby Playa del Amor.
Playa del Amor is a tiny cove on the eastern end of Playa Zipolite. It’s so tiny that it can only be accessed via a short stone staircase that starts where Playa Zipolite ends.
Playa del Amor is the original nudist beach of Oaxaca State.
Playa del Amor was the original spot of beach specifically designated for the strange, foreign, hippie nudists, sometime in the 1970s. Over time, nude bathers outgrew the small cove, and the acceptance of nudity eventually spread onto Zipolite Beach.
Today, Zipolite is widely considered to be nudist, although somewhat unofficially (nudity is not condoned by the local government, although it is tolerated).
Is everyone naked? No! Do I have to be naked? No!
During high season, you’ll find many more nudists/tourists baring all. Perhaps there is safety, or comfort, in numbers.
In the low season, after most of the tourists go home, the ratio evens out a bit. But you’ll still find ex-pats and locals who live the nudist lifestyle.
Regardless of when you visit, you will not be alone if you’d like to show more skin.
On the other hand, if seeing a lot of genitalia isn’t your thing, you may choose to spend your time on another beach. Nearby Playa Mazunte (just 10 minutes west of Zipolite) has significantly less nudity.
A Few Quick PSAs for Playa Zipolite
Please be respectful of other people and the environment:
- Despite the nudity, there is not and should not be any public hanky-panky.
- Please pick up after yourself. Trash, especially condoms, wash away into the surf and are extremely dangerous for ocean wildlife. (I know, my special mention of condoms contradicts PSA #1, but I’m doubling down for this one.)
- If you do want to be nude, even partially, please keep it to the beach. Do not go in town, or generally anywhere off the beach, inappropriately (un)dressed.
Strong Beach Currents
The next important fact to know is about the ocean: the waves here are strong. There have been enough incidents in the past that the local community has implemented various safety measures. Lifeguards drive back and forth on ATVs, and some hotels have staff lifeguards.
When we arrived just before New Year’s, I was confused by Zipolite’s reputation as a dangerous beach. The waves seemed reasonable, swimmable.
And then, a few weeks into January, the beach went back to normal. Waves crashed and pulled, the current was strong again, and lifeguards started calling folks away from deeper waters.
The take-away: be extra cautious when swimming at Zipolite. Don’t be afraid to join the others in boogie boarding, surfing, body surfing, and swimming, but please pay special attention to the current and veer on the side of caution.
The “Scene”
The crowd at Playa Zipolite is quite diverse. There are Mexican nationals and foreign tourists; locals and expats; young couples and the retired; families with children and single gay men. There are people looking for a family vacation, a romantic getaway, or just time to suntan in peace (without tan lines!).
Whatever their backstory or reason for visiting, the overall tone of Playa Zipolite is relaxation. Beach & chill, all day long!
Relaxation, in this corner of Mexico, often includes the open use of marijuana. “Mota” is the nickname for marijuana in Mexico, important to know for when you will invariably be offered some. We were buying fresh-caught fish from the back of a man’s motorcycle when he offered to sell us mota.
While there are exceptions to every generalization, I’ll go out on a limb with a few blanket statements.
If you’re searching for a party scene, I wouldn’t suggest Zipolite. The party exists, to be sure, but not every night. You may want to go with Puerto Escondido or even the slightly busier Playa Mazunte.
If you’re searching for luxury, you may find Zipolite a little too casual and low-key. There aren’t that many fancy hotels and restaurants. I’d suggest Mexico’s bigger beach resorts for more indulgent options, the nearest being Puerto Escondido.
If you’re searching for a slightly larger town with more hippie and hipster offerings, head to Mazunte. Mazunte is just a little more developed, with more options to get your preferred fix, whether it’s yoga, craft beer, coffee shops, or a variety of cuisines. Mazunte generally attracts a younger, more hip population than Zipolite.
If you’re searching for an LGBTQ+ friendly environment, Zipolite is a great community.
Bars & Restaurants
Though small, Playa Zipolite does not lack in options.
Beachfront
Zipolite has beachfront eateries ranging from low-key casual to candlelight. There are also bars featuring live acoustic music, reggae, or even electronic dance music, with floodlights bright enough to outshine a lighthouse.
Order a drink or some food, absorb the sunshine and the breeze, and watch the blue-green waves crash upon the shore. Then, do it again the next day! Relaxation, complete!
Zipolite ‘Town’
Off the beach, Playa Zipolite has the typical beach boardwalk environment too.
Playa Zipolite’s “town” is composed of two streets, maybe 3-4 blocks long. There are restaurants, bars, convenience stores, a grocery, a cinema, and vendors selling trinkets. During the day it is usually too hot to attract much attention, but at night it is lively and worth a browse.
Town starts on the left (if facing inland) of Buda Mar, a classy, higher-end hotel on the western end. The fastest route to town is via the beach.
Sunsets AND Sunrises!
Alright, I know this section is a bit Captain Obvious, but I promise it comes with practical information and tips!
Sunsets
As a California girl, I have to say that sunsets are an undeniable highlight to beach life on the west coast.
In Zipolite, the beach is at its busiest during sunset. The heat is down, the breeze is up, and the transition to nighttime begins. Local families come out to enjoy the surf, dogs play-wrestle in the sand, and everyone gathers to gaze upon the sun till the last sliver slips below the horizon.
Tip #1: If you’re here for multiple days, try watching the sunset from different points along the beach. The atmosphere changes every hundred feet or so, from busy to quiet, relaxed to raucous.
Tip #2: Stick around after the sun drops below the horizon. Contrary to popular belief, the best colors come out after sunset.
Tip #3: Mosquitos are most active around sunset and throughout the night. Gather the necessary precautions, or your peaceful evening can turn into full-on insect warfare! (We recommend Off! It does not leave the skin so sticky.)
Sunrises
On the Pacific Coast, beach sunsets are to be expected; but did you know that you can also watch the sunrise over the eastern horizon?
Playa del Amor offers an excellent view of sunrise during certain times of the year.
How to Get There: From the small cove, head up the rocky peak with the wooden post holding up a small trash can. You’ll have an excellent view of the sun rising over the eastern horizon. Be careful climbing up the rocks.
Why Only Certain Times of the Year? The sun rotates throughout the year, making sunrise a different point on the horizon every day. From this spot at Playa del Amor, there are times of the year where the cliffs and rocky islands will block your view. For my visit, the sunrise ducked behind the cliffs and out of view sometime in mid-January.
Sunrise is Awesome Anyway: Even if you don’t climb up the rocks at Playa del Amor to see the sunrise, the early, early morning is awesome anyway. The heat hasn’t settled yet, the moon may still be out, and only the most dedicated are out. I enjoyed getting up at 5:30 am to stretch, work out, meditate, and walk my dog, all before the sun’s rays even reached the beach! After all, you can catch more ZZZZ’s in the afternoon, when it’s too hot to do much else!
VanLife in Playa Zipolite
DangGoodLife Note: If you’re unfamiliar with vanlife and our DangGoodLife story, here’s the short version: My husband, dog, and I have been driving through Mexico in our 2015 Ford Transit high-roof van. We converted this van into our casa rodante (rolling home) with our own two hands, so it has everything we need to live comfortably on the road. We share our travels through DangGoodLife to help others plan their overland journeys through Mexico.
Check out My Ultimate Guide to Vanlife on the Beach here!
Where We Stayed in Playa Zipolite
Our vanlife parking spot is the main reason we stayed in Playa Zipolite for so long! We had no idea we would find such perfection on our first vanlife-at-a-Mexican-beach experience, after months of traveling through the Mexican highlands. When you start with the best, it’s hard to find a reason to leave.
We found this Playa Zipolite boondocking site on iOverlander, an excellent resource for overland travelers around the world.
The parking area really has no name – it’s just a stretch of sand owned by the local community that allows free camping boondocking.
*NOTE* This parking area was getting renovated when we left Zipolite. What you read below may have changed in the renovation (late January 2020). Been there? Send me a message and let me know how it’s changed!
Here’s what you get and what you don’t get:
- A *FREE* parking spot that is ~100 feet from the ocean waves. Wow! Open your doors wide, let the breeze flow through, hear the waves crashing – all of it is yours for the basking!
- *FREE* comes with a small catch: you may be approached to pay a “tip” for parking here. Even though it’s totally free to park, that does not stop the police from coming by to ask for a little something in exchange for “guarding the area” (see my comment on security below). While it’s your personal choice to pay or not to pay, it’s important to understand that in this particular spot you won’t receive any services or amenities in exchange for your contribution.
- Security in numbers. It’s in everyone’s best interest here to get nice and cozy with each other. This allows more space for other campers, but it also translates to a tighter community (literally). A tighter community means better security. While you’ll still you want to pack up your valuables overnight (desirable, theft-prone items, like a guitar for example), living close together discourages naughty nighttime prowlers. We also left our rear door slightly ajar overnight for the breeze, but we used rope to prevent anyone from opening the door all the way, and we installed a dark curtain that serves as our “garage door,” preventing anyone from being able to take or to even see our stuff without a bit of work and a light source. Our neighbors did neither, and someone reached into their van storage area one night. Luckily, our neighbor saw this and yelled so the would-be thief ran off. You can’t prevent theft completely, but you can make it a heck of a lot harder!
- No access to a toilet and showers. You’re on your own for these bodily needs. For those who don’t have a portable toilet (we have this one), people do their business in a bucket of sand, a jar, the ocean, the bushes, or any number of businesses on and off the beach. Some businesses have showers that you can pay for, but I highly recommend getting a solar shower. You can fashion some privacy out of large sheets, but it is a nude beach after all. We showered behind our van at night, between the open rear doors. It’s dark anyway, and our rear doors gave us privacy from our neighbors (although I’m sure they appreciated the privacy from seeing us shower!). Get something elevated to stand on, so you don’t end up in a puddle of wet sand.
- Sewer dump. There is a small hole in the sand (currently demarked by a crumpled white plastic cup) that leads directly to a sewer below. It’s where everyone dumps their grey water (sink) and black water (toilet). We have portable plastic tanks for both of these, so I have no experience dumping with an RV hose. For us, this sewer dump is the reason we could stay so long; otherwise, we’d have to find some restroom to inconspicuously dump our toilet (which always feels to me like a super awkward undercover mission).
- Water and fruit delivery trucks. Every day, a truck carrying 20-liter (5-gallon) water bottles and a truck carrying fruit make their rounds through the parking lot. They’re fast, so you have to be around to wave down the drivers (whistling is useful). Water is 15 MXN per bottle; be sure to have your containers to transfer water into. We have these 7-gallon containers; they are stable enough and their tops wide enough that a 20-liter bottle can comfortably rest upside down while transferring water over. It’s a much easier, faster method.
- Palapas are shade shelters made with sturdy sticks and palm fronds. There are several in front that are free and first-come, first served. They are excellent for hanging your hammock.
- Space to spread out. Why live inside the confines of your van when you can spread out onto the sand and a nice ocean breeze? Set up your patio and stretch those legs! We put out our canopy, camping chairs, grass mat, and table. Ah, the joy of van camping!
In late January, we were told we had to leave to make room for Zipolite’s Annual Nudist Festival. We could return in about 2 weeks, after the festival.
So began the search for alternatives! Our wonderful neighbors and new vanlife friends Ramón and Andi got permission for us to move to a community parking lot, next to the Alcoholics Anonymous building. It was not beachfront (a whole block away!) it was very shaded with many coconut trees and it had restrooms, showers, and a freshwater spigot!
We stayed there two nights but were eventually unfortunately told that we couldn’t park there anymore. It was a sign from the universe for us to move on…
Overlanding Elsewhere in Playa Zipolite
While several beach-front businesses rent out tenting spots, few allow camping from your vehicle, especially if you want an unobstructed view of the ocean. However, these paid camping sites do have amenities like bathrooms, showers, and maybe even wi-fi.
If having these amenities nearby and on-demand is important to you, then you can try Sara Y Carlos. Sara Y Carlos is on the eastern end, very close to the free vanlife parking area. The breeze is lovely from the wind tunnel effect created by the restaurant and posada. The restroom and showers are clean, and there is wi-fi. Space is limited. Expect 150 – 200 MXN per night.
The Drive to Playa Zipolite
From Oaxaca, you would take Highway 175 southbound for about six hours to reach Playa Zipolite. I highly recommend breaking this trip up into two days, because you will be slowed by the size/agility/power of your vehicle, topes (speedbumps), curvy, steep mountain roads, and the occasional livestock crossing.
The good news is there’s an excellent travel destination smack in the middle of your route: San José del Pacífico. See my article on Vanlife in San José del Pacífico here. We loved it so much that we stayed for a week!
After San José, the road heads down to sea level. This is a beautiful drive, though steep and very curvy. One minute you’re in a pine forest, the next you’re in the lush tropics, driving by fields of banana, coffee, papaya, and more. On the beautiful, sunny day that we drove, we suddenly ran into a thick, humid fog, before it opened up again to sunny, sticky hot weather.
Many roadside businesses are great places to buy some fresh coffee, fruit (many varieties of banana!), cacao, and honey. You’ll end up paying much higher prices down at the beach, so get it here while you can!
Replenish Supplies
Just before you reach the coast (Puerto Angél), you’ll pass through Pochútla. Pochútla is the nearest big town to Zipolite, so it’s the best place to stock up. There are ATMs, big box stores, auto repair supplies, mechanics, and several specialty stores to buy all the supplies you may need to set yourself up for beach boondocking: wood scraps, mosquito nets, shade tarps, and charcoal (called “carbon,” the Mexican charred wood kind, not the charcoal brick kind).
The prices here are far better than down by the beaches. Jon took the colectivo (public transportation covered truck) back and forth to Pochútla several times to restock our groceries and supplies. It’s 15 MXN for a single ride to Pochútla, 30 MXN round-trip.
Services in Playa Zipolite
Playa Zipolite is a small town compared to its neighbors, Mazunte, Puerto Angél, and Pochútla. Sometimes stores and restaurants struggle to resupply, so you’ll have to do with what’s available.
Groceries – The biggest grocery store is in town (take the alley left of Buda Mar hotel). This store has lettuce, potatoes, oranges, peppers, avocados, etc. Convenient stores will only have the most basic vegetables, like onions, tomatoes, limes, and garlic.
Convenient Stores – Here you can resupply on cold beer, refrigerated goods, dried goods, shampoo, sunscreen, canned foods, packaged snacks, cigarettes, pet food, etc.
Meat – There aren’t a lot of options. We expected to be able to purchase fresh-caught fish directly from fishermen, but it wasn’t consistently reliable – during our ~3 weeks, we bought whole, cleaned, and gutted fish from the back of a motorcycle twice. Instead, to resupply, Jon took a hilly bicycle ride to Puerto Angél, a bit west of Zipolite, or hitched a colectivo ride to Pochútla. You may be able to find raw chicken; ask around in town.
Gas – There aren’t any traditional gas stations here. Next to the library and playground, on the street behind the boondocking area, is a small business that sells gas and diesel in containers.
Wi-fi – The wi-fi is spotty in Zipolite. Some days it’s great, and some days it doesn’t work at all. Some days one place has wi-fi and the other doesn’t. We like the coffee shop, Carpe Diem. The owner is wonderfully nice and the coffee and environs are excellent. It’s a very short walk from the boondocking spot. For a beachfront workspace, we recommend Posada Natasha, though you’ll be pressed to order more than just coffee. They serve good, clean food (i.e. fresh, not greasy).
Laundry – Laundry is 17 MXN per kilo. Honestly, while boondocking on the beach (especially a nudist one – hah!), we didn’t really go through that many clothes. It was mostly towels and rags that we went through – beach towels, shower towels, hand towels, cleaning rags, floor foot-wiping rags, bathing rags, etc. Because of this, I washed our rags in a bucket of seawater and biodegradable detergent, then rinsed them with fresh water before hanging to dry. Pro-tip: don’t leave things hanging to dry overnight. In this humidity, you’ll find them wet again the next morning.
ATMs – Good luck with that. There are two ATMs in town, but they are often out of cash. Ask first if restaurants or convenient stores take credit cards. The convenience store SIX takes card. The best solution is just to bring sufficient efectivo (cash) for your trip. The nearest reliable ATM is in Pochútla.
Other Services – There’s one tattoo parlor and one hair salon in town. There are a few massage services on the beach. A couple of beachfront businesses offer surf lessons.
VanLife with Dogs
In Mexico, many apparently stray dogs actually belong to nearby homes and businesses, but it’s the Mexican way to let them roam free – the survival of the smartest, I would call it. They are very tame, friendly, well-fed, and independent – and, in many ways, luckier than any well-groomed, urban, domesticated dog.
We vanlife with our rat terrier mix, Willie. We adore Willie, but he can be a total jerk to other dogs. We know from experience that accommodating an aggressive dog comes with many considerations. I’m here to tell you that the work is worth the reward!
Here’s a section on vanlifing with dogs at the beach.
If You Have a Well-Behaved Dog:
Lucky you! If your dog loves to play with people and other dogs, Playa Zipolite is a dog’s heaven! Even though there’s *one* sign that asks for dogs to be leashed, most dogs here roam freely.
Just make sure your dog doesn’t do its business (pee or poop) near any of the businesses.
If You Have a “Bad” Dog:
Don’t worry; with certain precautions, you too can have a great experience on the beach with your dog!
Tip #1: Leash your dog. We use a strong extendable leash for Willie. Make sure your leash and collar are rust-proof, or you’ll end up with a very orange dog (said from experience).
Tip #2: Use a silicon basket-style muzzle. We are so glad we have this. We put it on his face whenever a new dog comes over to check him out. This protects the other dog if Willie decides he doesn’t like him/her, and it prevents him from eating random stuff on the floor. If you do get a muzzle, it’s important to get a basket-style one – there is more breathing room, which matters a lot in hot and humid weather.
Tip #3: Repeat exposure. Over time and constant exposure to many new dogs, Willie began to behave much better. Our vanlife neighbors noticed the same with their own aggressive dog. The beach dogs here have learned to be submissive and playful, so you can use them to your advantage as a training tool.
Tip #4: If training doesn’t work, you can avoid other dogs completely. I could send any of the local dogs away with even the slightest body language or tsk-tsk. If that doesn’t work, reaching down to throw some sand in their direction will also send them on their away.
If You Don’t Have a Dog:
I can’t decide if I like people-watching more, or dog-watching. I find it immensely amusing to see them run and play in the ocean waves. If you don’t have a dog, you can easily adopt a (temporary) furry friend. A little bit of affection goes a long way.
Other Planning Tips
Don’t forget to check out My Ultimate Guide to Vanlife on the Beach here.
I hope this helps you to prepare for VanLife in Playa Zipolite!
If you have any questions or comments, feel free to contact us at hello@DangGoodLife.com.
If this article has helped you to plan your own adventure in Playa Zipolite, please consider supporting us by shopping through our affiliate links, sharing this post, and engaging with us on our social media channels. Your support helps us keep gas in the van so that we can continue to provide this Dang Good content.
With sincere gratitude,
Lien & Jon
